This was made with finger jointed rubber. I used 12 mm finger jointed rubber. I cut it out initially into a piece about 4 inches by 12 inches to facilitate cutting with the scroll saw.
I got a general idea of the plane from a picture online and drew the body freehand. The wing was fixed in a groove below the body of the plane. It is possible to fix the wings in the center of the body but that will be a little more difficult.
The wings needed thinner wood. 12mm is the thinnest wood available in finger jointed rubber. To thin this out I cut a thin strip of this wood into two thinner pieces with my 'table saw'. Although I tried to get two equal pieces I ended up with a thicker and thinner piece. The thicker piece went for the wing. This may be about 4 mm thick. The thinner piece went for the propeller. It may be about 2 mm thick.
I initially made wheels that could move, but they turned out to be too brittle. As these planes are made for kids who may be quite rough with them I thought just a cut out would do.
The propeller : Screwed on to the tip of the plane. The hole in the propeller has to be a little larger than the screw so that it rotates. Screw it in just short of tight so that the movement is smooth with minimal wobble. I put a little bit of glue on the tip of the screw before screwing it in.
All joints for the wing and the wheels were with fevicol and reinforced with headless nails. I found out that I could cut the headless nails with a cutting pliers to get them of the right size.
This was a kind of seaplane. I used stainless steel screws instead of headless nails. However I did not like the look of steel on what was otherwise a wooden finish. It is not a replica of any plane but just a free hand drawing.
After cutting out with the scroll saw there is a bit of sanding to be done to smooth the edges.
I made three such planes, with slightly differing profiles. I like the look of finger jointed wood as it is, that is unfinished. It does not seem to stain very easiliy.
To protect it (if the planes last) some protective clear coating will have to be painted on. Overall this is an easy scroll saw project to undertake for a beginner.
I got a general idea of the plane from a picture online and drew the body freehand. The wing was fixed in a groove below the body of the plane. It is possible to fix the wings in the center of the body but that will be a little more difficult.
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| Wooden toy plane |
I initially made wheels that could move, but they turned out to be too brittle. As these planes are made for kids who may be quite rough with them I thought just a cut out would do.
The propeller : Screwed on to the tip of the plane. The hole in the propeller has to be a little larger than the screw so that it rotates. Screw it in just short of tight so that the movement is smooth with minimal wobble. I put a little bit of glue on the tip of the screw before screwing it in.
All joints for the wing and the wheels were with fevicol and reinforced with headless nails. I found out that I could cut the headless nails with a cutting pliers to get them of the right size.
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| Wooden sea plane |
After cutting out with the scroll saw there is a bit of sanding to be done to smooth the edges.
I made three such planes, with slightly differing profiles. I like the look of finger jointed wood as it is, that is unfinished. It does not seem to stain very easiliy.
To protect it (if the planes last) some protective clear coating will have to be painted on. Overall this is an easy scroll saw project to undertake for a beginner.
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| Three wooden planes made from finger jointed rubber with a scroll saw |
I purchased a used scroll saw a few weeks back. It still needs to be tuned a bit. It is a 22" Hegner Multi Max. I had seen proxxon being sold for $99 on amazon and decided to buy it next day but then price increased so I went around searching and landed up with a used Hegner. It came with Hundreds of blades the sellers friend passed away and he was selling it for his family. Though he did not know even how to demonstrate it.
ReplyDeleteWhile every thing seems to be ok some tuning needs to be done to align the blade etc. Also I feel It is talking at very long time to cut compared to what I see other people cutting on youtube. Im unable to even identify the blades as there are no labels. Im not sure if this is because of the tuning that needs to be done or the quality or type of blades that I am using. I need your input on this.
Kittu I am glad you did not purchase the proxxon. I mean in India it is ok as there is no other one of similar quality that I can find in the market as of now. However in the US I feel that there are so many other options.
ReplyDeleteI am not sure what you mean by blade alignment. The only adjustment I can make is the blade tension. I suppose when there are more features the blade has to be aligned.
I think what is shown in the net often is softwood. The proxxon that I have limits at about 1 cm of finger jointed wood. Thin wood is a breeze.
Check if the blades are new. Also check if they are taut. The proxxon has a tension screw. There must be some similar adjustment to make sure the blades are in the right tension.
I have found scroll sawing the most rewarding in terms of woodworking. The best results with the least effort.
Vinay, you are destined to move on from scroll saws:)
ReplyDeleteThanks :-)
ReplyDeleteI had always wondered this. Thanks for the post!
ReplyDelete